In July, I (L) visited Amsterdam for the first time. Similar to my prior travel experiences in Poland, I received a few recommendations and travel tips from my Dutch colleagues who are also here on an international assignment. An initially planned solo trip turned out to be one full of company! In my 3 days spent in Amsterdam, I met up with a Singaporean friend / colleague, and coincidentally, made a friend of American-Korean descent also on a solo travel.

Through this post, beyond sharing my favourite (or rather, touristy) experiences, I will also be sharing some tips for first time travellers to Amsterdam to save time and disappointment!

Streets of canals & bicycles are a unique sight in Amsterdam.

What to do #1: Visit Rijksmuseum

Greeting visitors before the museum entrance is a beautiful Gardens. It was a warm greeting with the beautiful blooms during summertime.

This Dutch museum focuses primarily on arts and history, with a pretty extensive collection of Dutch artists' works. The most famous artwork here is the Night Watch, which I heard is the only artwork that has a special contingency planned in case of a fire or if any disaster strikes.

I must say, I am still at a "beginner" on the topic of art appreciation. I am keen to learn and be exposed more to this area. So, if you have tips or sharing, feel free to share them with me via email! Renting the audio guide was a good decision in going through the highlights of this big museum. I particularly enjoy the process of figuring out what the artist was trying to depict and subsequently, hearing the stories behind them through the audio guide. It amuses me, more often than not, when my interpretation is markedly different from the artist's. What I have learnt through having viewed some of these major artworks, is that historical paintings are sometimes used for propaganda purposes, depicting a different scene from what was reality. Also, famous artists enjoy putting themselves in the paintings, as part of the scene depicted. Is that their hope for a shot to fame or to make it seem like they are part of the elite / royal group's events and ceremonies?

A favourite from Rijksmuseum - "Dutch Lady" looking surprisingly peaceful.
This image exuberates a nice warmth & fuzzy feeling

Of the artworks that I had gone through here in Rijksmuseum, my favourite pieces are the Dutch Lady (pictured above) and the Cupyers Library (pictured below).

One of my favourites - "The Cuypers Library"
looks and feels so inviting.

Top Tip #1: Rijksmuseum & Van Gogh Museum are situated close to each other. Plan your itinerary in such a way that you visit them on the same day. They are also a couple of museums in this area. If you are a museum buff, make sure to plan well! Besides setting aside some time to go through them, do check also the museum's opening hours.

What to do #2: Visit Anne Frank's House, even if you had not read the Anne Frank's Diaries.

Anne Frank's Diaries has been translated to many different languages and has reached a worldwide audience.

Top Tip #2: Make an online reservation for Anne Frank's House, to avoid disappointment and long queues.

Starting with a tip for 2 reasons. Firstly, without an online reservation, you will have to wait till 3.30pm, where the doors are opened to the public. And secondly, you will have to join a really long "snaking" line, together with others who have not made one.

Anne Frank's House struck me hard for 2 reasons. One, this secret annexe was a real hide-out for a family and their friends', fearing for their lives (or deaths), in the not-too-distant WWII. Secondly, I visited the Auschwitz Concentration Camp in Krakow a few weeks ago, the visuals and stories of Prisoners-of-Wars were still fresh in my head.

The chestnut tree that still stands strong outside Anne Frank's House.
It feels like a "guardian angel" to this place, doesn't it?

What to do #3: Visit Van Gogh Museum

On a lighter and happier note, I enjoyed my visit to the Van Gogh Museum. This museum houses a series of paintings, drawings and letters by the famous Vincent van Gogh. As earlier mentioned, I have a really basic knowledge about art and the arts scene. Through this museum, I felt I had known a new person. A really talented individual of his time, who experienced sufferings. All these through his artworks, and short stories gathered from the audio guide.

Van Gogh enjoys painting self-portraits, through which
you can get a glimpse of how his life transformed with time. 

My favourite pieces from his collection include, the Sunflowers, and a scene that depicts 3 couples in a garden. I picked these up in postcards from the Museum Shop, which had now reached D's hands. His "Europe" postcard collection is definitely growing (with location and what I particularly like in each city) with my frequent weekend travels!

A painting that depicts 3 couples in a garden.
I love how each of them can be interpreted so differently, but still remain in context.

It was pity this talented artist suffered from mental illness. One of the craziest thing he did was to cut off his left ear and sent it to a brothel. As his illness increased in severity, he was subsequently sent to an asylum, where he eventually made the bold decision of committing suicide at a tender age of 37.

Top Tip #3: If you still have some time after Rijksmuseum & Van Gogh Museum and enjoy the contemporary arts, the Stedelijk Museum is round the corner.

What to do #4: Bask in the food scene

Food is often a big part of our travels. Beyond trying out traditional local foods & snacks (where else to find better right?), I can't miss checking out the best breakfast / brunch spots and am always in the hunt for the best coffee in town.

PS: Beware when you ask the locals where the best coffeeshop is, because you might be led to a shop that sells weed and not coffee! Proper, legit coffees are sold in "cafes". Weed is sold in "coffeeshops".

A fact indeed that in Amsterdam, you can find weed related products readily & easily!

Recommendation #1: The best stroopwafels can be found in Albert Cuyp Market & specifically, at this store called "Original Stroopwafels".

Stroopwafels from "Original Stroopwafels" in Albert Cuyp Market is a must-try!
The market close on Sundays. This photo taken is with the owner's son. The recipe is a family kept secret.

Freshly made stroopwafels are the best you can find,
and not to be missed when you are in Amsterdam!

An early start on my last day meant watching the Albert Cuyp Market open its doors to visitors. 

Recommendation #2: Dutch pancakes are not to be missed. I never knew pancakes were that big in the Dutch cuisine before my trip to Amsterdam. This was a personal recommendation provided. I came across a couple of different pancake stores on my trip there, but nothing beats this one that we visited - Pancake Upstairs! 

A cosy joint with just 4 tables, you MUST make a reservation before you visit. Each table only gets an hour to dine in, and the owner is not afraid to say no when reservations are full. There are no takeaways too, so be sure to reserve or be prepared to be disappointed (because they do receive reservation requests aplenty)!

Happiness spelt in my facial expressions when someone did not turn up for their reservations,
probably due to the storm that day, and we were really lucky to have a table!

We shared a savoury & sweet pancake.
Each pancake is made fresh on order and done on point.
The savoury one especially blew me away!

Recommendation #3: Did you know...Amsterdam is also known for its Apple Pies? Once again, my ignorance but I am thankful for the recommendations received all around! For the best Apple Pies in town, you need to have one at Dwinkel 43.

A place that specialises in Apple Pies, it was FULL HOUSE in the afternoon.
Thankfully this place allows takeaway, because people were flooding out of the cafe & lines are long.

Recommendation #4: Food is one thing that I would spend time and effort to research on before a trip. I recall D asking me once what my favourite food is, and I started listing them in this order: eggs done any style, although preferably poached, COFFEE, fruits, muesli, yoghurt, tomatoes, bread / pastry etc. And he said, you just want a breakfast buffet! That said, I love breakfasts, my favourite meal of the day because I believe in starting my day right. Of the breakfast spots I managed to check out on this trip, I recommend having brunch at Bakers & Roasters. A Kiwi (New Zealand) cafe that serves the best brunch (& possibly coffee too) in town. Go early to beat the crowds for brunch at Bakers & Roasters.

Recommendation #5: I never knew before, but food halls are a big thing in Europe. Since our trip to Lyon in France where we had a gastronomic experience of our lives, visiting the first food hall I have ever been in Europe, I look out for food halls in my various weekend city explorations. Food halls typically come in two forms. The first operate mainly from morning till late afternoon, where they offer a variety of fresh meats and produce and there are also stores that serve food by the bar. The second type operate from afternoon till late at night. They offer a variety of global food selections and play great music. One can always expect a bustling crowd. And in Amsterdam, the best place to have dinner is at Food Hallen. Not to be missed is a great Gin & Tonic cocktail bar on site!

I couldn't resist this Bitterballen tasting platter.
It consists of 5 different flavours -
1 traditional beef, 1 truffle, 1 bouillabaisse, 1 Tom Kah Khai and 1 goats cheese. 

This G&T bar on-site Food Hallen dishes out a great variety of G&T concoctions.

Recommendation #6: If you are on a healthy diet / lifestyle, besides the tasty but slightly sinful street food like Bitterballen and French Fries, there are also the healthier and inexpensive Herrings that you can also try!

Herring served sashimi style from street carts.
Slightly fishy, but when served fresh, they make a delicious snack!

A girlfriend who was in the Netherlands for exchange a couple of years ago, highly recommended a try at the french fries!
Quoting her, the potatoes here are so "sweet", you wouldn't believe it! To top it off, she had to mention that Singapore imports potatose from the Netherlands. Where else to get fresher?!
Vleminckx, apparently the most popular one here in Amsterdam, should not be missed!

Top Tip #4: The health food scene is pretty big in Amsterdam. So if you are a healthy eater, do check out Pluk for a tasty treat of acai bowls or Juice by Nature for a bottle of cultured Kombucha.

We were in love with this open concept kitchen!
Loads of fresh, vibrant colours - dream kitchen for the future.

I love acai bowls!
They are perfect as a sweet treat that still falls into the category of a healthy lifestyle.

What to do #5: Sign up for a Walking Tour

Whenever possible, I would start my trips with a walking tour. It quickly gets you to the "must-sees", and more importantly, the guides would share local insights and secret spots to visit which you would not get from searching on Google or reading travel guide books.

A walking tour offers insights to streets and buildings,
which we would have normally just walked past without knowing or thinking too much about.

I went on a free walking tour with Freedam Tours. It was a company started out of interest by a Geography teacher about 1.5 years ago. There are also a couple of other free walking tours available in Amsterdam, so pick feel free to just pick one that interests you or suits your travel schedule!

A beautiful day checking out the sights of Amsterdam.
This one taken at the Royal Palace.

The oldest church in Amsterdam, located right beside a canal.
This was the starting point for my walking tour.
Definitely iconic for Amsterdam!

What to do #6: Visit the Heineken Brewery for a Heineken Experience!

Did you know... Heineken originated from Amsterdam? 

It was shared that each horse here is named after a senior management
who made significant contributions to the Heineken business.
You know you had made a mark if you have a horse here. Each horse is also treated with utmost care, with a trainer dedicated to each of their lifestyle routines, & diet.

This is an experience not to be missed, even if you are not a fan of beers. Going through rooms of how beers are made, visiting horse stables (there is a history of Heineken & horses), followed by a 4D experience of the brewing process and finally ending the tour on a rooftop bar. The price of a ticket for the Heineken Experience also includes 2 beers (or soft drinks if you wish). It's a steal, isn't it?

What to do #7: Watch a local musical / concert / show

I did not expect to catch a local show here in Amsterdam and this was something decided on-the-fly. A Dutch colleague recommended checking out last minute discounted tickets, and I decided to go for "Boom Chicago - Shot of Improv". It was an extremely interactive show, with managing the participation from audience being key. As with all improvisations, the success of such shows was highly dependent on how well actors manage inputs from audience and think on the spot to create humour. 

Top Tip #5: Check here for last minute discounted tickets, with discounts as good as 50%. The catch, though, is you only get to see what discounted shows are available on the day itself.

What to do #8: Take a Canal Cruise

In a city renown for their canals, a canal tour is not to be missed!

Fun fact: The name of the city, Amsterdam is derived from its origins. A dam in the river Amstel.

Known as the "Venice of the North", Amsterdam houses a number of canals. Historically, this served the purpose of defense and water management. The modern day canals features streets with different "characters". This ranges from fashion, food, art etc.

A giant aquarium, also iconic to visit in Amsterdam!
Unfortunately, my 3 days in Amsterdam did not allow for this visit.

Views from the Canal Tour.
Fun fact: Houses in Amsterdam are built to an angle that leans slightly forward.
This is due to the narrow entrances & stairways, that requires large furniture to be moved into the apartment via the windows. With an angle that leans forward, it enables easier lifting of heavy and bulky goods up the apartment building.

What to do #9: Visit Zaanse Schaans (the land of windmills) for a day.

Zaanse Schaans has a beautiful collection of windmills brought from around the country!
Bidding the city landscape goodbye, it feels good to busk in the lands of mother nature.

If following the above recommendations still allows half a day more of explorations, why not consider exploring the outskirts of Amsterdam?

On my third and final day in Amsterdam, I decided to take a bus from Amsterdam Central Station to the Zaandam neighbourhood. Zaanse Schaans has a collection of 18th and 19th century windmills, houses that feature a variety of crafts and food, and museums (not pictured). 

Travel Tip: To get there, from Amsterdam Central Station, you can hop onto Rnet-bus 391, which departs approximately every 15 minutes. In the summer months of July & August, there is an additional option of riding on Rnet-bus 817 that departs from the same bus stop. Both options will bring you to Zaanse Schaans in 40 minutes.

Amsterdam is such a unique city. One that visitors can associate with the terms "canals", "Heineken", "red light district", "French Fries" and "coffeeshops". The city lives, breathes and thrives with vibrancy. Till the next time (hopefully with D ;))!

xx,

L

It has been almost 8 months since L and I went on our getaway to Vietnam and its capital city of Hanoi up north. The last time I visited Vietnam must have been over twenty years ago, back when the dusty streets where thronged with an almost infinite number of scooters, a bewildering scene of organised chaos for a young me. Unfortunately, my memories of the country from back then seem to fail me, apart from its busy streets, rice-based cuisine and the labyrinth of Cu Chi tunnels – remnants of the days of the Vietnam War on Ho Chi Minh city. More importantly, this also marked our first leisure trip abroad together – I say leisure because we were both in Kuala Lumpur coincidentally on business earlier in the year.

On our boat cruising through Ha Long Bay

The trip left a strong impression in our minds and represented firsts for each of us in many respects. Before these memories vacate our minds, here are our top tips and must goes when visiting the vibrant Hanoi in the northern part of this S-shaped country. Note that we spent 8 days and 7 nights there.

1. Local travel agents are a god-send

L and I took great, albeit calculated, risks by embarking on our trip with no bookings made apart from our accommodation and activities in Hanoi. Before you write us off as careless travelers, you must know that we actually plan our trips very meticulously, with an excel template to track all activities (reservations, transportation, attractions, food options etc.). Our initial desktop research, coupled with input from friends led us to the conclusion that it would be more economical / value-for-money to make reservations for our trips out of Hanoi (principally Halong Bay and Sapa) with the travel agents when physically there, given the stronger bargaining power - that said, travel agents are the go-to contact for such trips given the pure amount of logistics involved, coupled with the language barrier.

Not resting on our laurels, we actually obtained detailed quotes from a number of reputable travel agents way in advance of our trip, with three principle objectives - to get pricing benchmarks, cross-check itineraries and to ensure that the travel agents could accommodate last minute requests (similar to what we would be doing when physically in Hanoi). This exercise provided us with a lot of comfort that all our shortlisted travel agents would be able to accommodate our proposed travel plans and we finalised the travel agent rankings in our shortlist and their respective locations / opening hours, so that we could make a beeline for them upon touchdown.

As an overview of our 8D7N travel plans:
- Days 1-2: Hanoi (with Day 1 arrival in the evening)
- Days 3-4: Halong Bay Cruise
- Days 4-6: Hiking in Sapa (Sleeper trains to and fro)
- Day 7: Day trip (Either to Perfume Pagoda / Hoa Lu and Tam Coc)
- Day 8: Hanoi

Living in the Old Quarters of Hanoi meant that we were immediately thrown in to the evening hustle and bustle of the city, just in time for when the streets are blocked off and the mayhem takes to the streets. Given our timing constraints, all our shortlisted travel agents were within a short walk from our hotel and our first stop was Adventure Indochina along Ma May Street, just round the bend from hotel.

The reason why Adventure Indochina came right top of our list was due to two friend recommendations, coupled with prompt responses and reasonable pricing based on our emailing exercise as described above - and we were not disappointed at all, in fact L and I remain incredibly impressed by their standard of service, which definitely made our trip in more ways than one.

Given the sheer amount of logistics involved, Kathy from Adventure Indochina was able to put us at ease and comprehended our intended itinerary entirely - we were pretty fixed in that we wanted sleeper train connections to and from Sapa, amongst other demands. With all the options laid out, we settled on an upgraded Halong Bay cruise, Sapa trek with a village homestay, and a day trip out to the old capital of Hoa Lu and Tam Coc. After some bargaining (and you should always try), and compared to our initial quotes, we got a great deal with a free airport transfer at thrown in at the end as well!

With the benefit of hindsight, the entire trip went well and without a hitch. Kathy even made sure to greet and meet-up with us everytime we were back in Hanoi, and even sent us off at the train station when we were headed up north to Sapa. You can see why they made our trip happen, literally! Hence no qualms from us recommending them sort your trips out when in Vietnam and they should be your first port of call when thinking of heading outside of Hanoi!

2. Where to stay?

Street hawkers peddling their wares in Hanoi

First time visitors to Hanoi will be spoilt for choice when coming to accommodation options - all of which provide for vastly different experiences catering to every budget. From Hoan Kiem (City centre), Ba Dinh and Tay Ho (west lake), the choice is relatively obvious, that being the Hoan Kiem district where the heart of the city lies.

Hoan Kiem lake at night

The Hoan Kiem district is obviously centered around the lake, also known as sword lake, and is divided into North and South. The North being the Old Quarters, characterised by the traditional tight streets and markets, and the French Quarters in the South, with its government buildings, embassies and luxury hotels. Hence this district caters for all budgets and immerses you right into the center of action.

We stayed at the perfectly located La Siesta along Ma May Street and as mentioned above, the streets are closed off to traffic on the weekends and turned into a walking street full of stalls and performers - a great way to immerse yourself in the thriving local atmosphere. Just round the corner from Hoan Kiem lake, we were never too far off from attractions in the district, but what topped it for us was the level of service provided, consistent across every staff of the hotel - incredibly accommodating to our travel plans and requests for shower facilities everytime we transited back in Hanoi from our day trips, by providing us access with their spa and suites on two separate occasions - we couldn't have asked for a better place to refresh ourselves after being on the road, particularly post our trek in Sapa.

3. Mobile plan

In my opinion, having a mobile data connection is of the essence when traversing Hanoi's busy streets without a local guide, in part also as a check against scam taxi companies which I will get to below. It is incredibly useful when roaming around the city such as finding restaurants, stores on side streets, and importantly the way back to hotel late at night.

The most convenient way would be to buy a sim card upon landing at the airport. You will be able to choose from various providers including Viettel and Vinaphone, and from various plans to suit your needs (based on 4G data and talk time requirements) - I had a work project going on during that period and hence needed flexibility on talk time. Worth noting that Vietnam is surprisingly not covered under SingTel's EasyData Roam packages and buying a local sim card would prevent you from racking up astronomical dataroaming charges.

However, do note that reception when outside of Hanoi, especially further out in Halong Bay and amongst the mountains in Sapa can get pretty patchy, but also a great way to get away from the technology and work!

4. Venturing outside of Hanoi

Every visitor to Hanoi would know that a large part of the attraction of Hanoi is actually in the activities one can do in its surrounding regions. Hanoi itself is not incredibly large, with most of its attractions located between the Hoan Kiem and Ba Ding districts, and can be easily covered off within 2 days. Northern Vietnam offers a number of alternatives within the wider region and given the length of our trip, we were sure to fit them into our itinerary - of which we were pretty certain that Ha Long Bay and Sapa were places we definitely wanted to visit.

Ha Long Bay

Approaching our boat in Ha Long Bay

Ha Long Bay is arguably the more famous and touristy of the two, and also a UNESCO protected site. A definite must-go and we would recommend a 2D1N trip, which would be more than sufficient to experience the beautiful landscapes in Ha Long Bay and its neighbouring Bai Tu Long Bay.

L posing on our boat infront of the beautiful sights Ha Long Bay

As mentioned in the above section, we chose to upgrade our tour to a bigger and better boat, and lucked out by being allocated to one of the largest boats available with on 6 other fellow passengers - an elderly European couple and a family of four. There were essentially as many crew members as passengers on this boat, and being the only "active" passengers, we had free reign to roam the massive boat and partake in the activities offered onboard - spring roll making, midnight karaoke, squid fishing and early morning yoga. A great way to take in the great outdoors in the comfort of a luxury liner, with the patchy mobile connection providing a good way to detach oneself from our increasingly technology-dependent lives.

Sapa

On board our sleeper train to Sapa

Sapa is located further up north, a mountainous region close to the border with China. An experience for the more outdoorsy and adventurous, we had heard many great reviews from our friends and were set on spending our time trekking the paddy fields of the region. Getting to Sapa itself is part of the experience - we opted for the overnight sleeper trains to and from Lao Cai which saw us spending the night in a 4-man cabin as we made the journey up north. We were then transferred to Sapa by bus and commenced our 2D1N trek through the picturesque countryside, amongst the rice terraces carved out of the hills.

Rice terraces of Sapa in Northern Vietnam

December is a relatively wet period, resulting in the paths being muddy and the views slightly misty, which was balanced off by the slightly chilly temperature which meant that the air was absolutely refreshing. Sliding around in mud just off the edge of a cliff can be a scary affair, and I would recommend those with small children to stick to the easier routes, but fortunately the helpful local ethnic ladies are always around to lend a helping hand if needed - of course in exchange for a small token / souvenir purchase at the end, I thought this was fair especially for the steeper routes. One word of advice would be to rely on these aunties sparingly as you can't always be purchasing items from every different group of them given the long trek involved - we must have trekked for close to 70km over the 1.5 days spent roaming the hills.

The carefree and friendly children we met while trekking through Sapa

Another wonderful experience to meet the ethnic minorities of Vietnam and take in the sights of the great outdoors on offer. The homestay in a local village provided insight into the daily lives / cuisines of these traditional folk and enabled deeper connections to be forged with our fellow travellers. Highly recommended for the more outdoor-focused and nature-loving travellers.

Others

Seen on our day trip out to Hoa Lu

We had another day to kill as part of itinerary and had initially provisioned for visiting the Perfume Pagoda as a day trip out of Hanoi - the travel agents generally have a number of options available for travellers. During our discussions and negotiations with Adventure Indochina, they convinced us to make our way down to Hoa Lu, the ancient capital of Vietnam, and Tam Coc. A leisurely tour which included a bicycle ride through the city, a human-powered boat trip, and general sightseeing. By no means a must, but could be considered if your itinerary permits.

5. Watch out for the infamous taxi scams

Vietnam is infamous for its taxi scams and that is probably top of the complaint list of tourists around the world. And through our research, we were well aware of these tricks before we embarked on our holiday and made sure to have our airport transfer booked in advance - especially when we were looking to visit the travel agents before they closed.

We were also advised by the hotel and the travel agents to only take taxis from reputable companies such as Taxi Group, to avoid being scammed by bogus fares and rigged meters.

However despite all our preparations and warnings, we unfortunately fell for this scam at the train station when returning from our Sapa trip. Following an overnight sleeper train, we arrived back in Hanoi in the wee hours of the morning, with the sky still dark and the train station thronging with taxi touts - the majority of whom we ignored. We had intended to hail a taxi from a reputable provider from the main road, but somehow we ended up speaking to a tout whose car had a Grabtaxi decal, which gave me some comfort that he would have been legitimate.

And boy were we wrong! Despite being able to cross-check the route on my mobile, we noticed that the taxi meter kept rising at an astronomical rate and soon it became absolutely clear that we were being scammed. So we demanded to alighted, paid part of the displayed fare and made our way back to the hotel on foot - a 20 minute walk from where we alighted. A small monetary loss, but ultimately a good lesson learnt first-hand - we were glad to be unscathed and back to the welcoming hospitality of our hotel. So always stay vigilant of scams at all times, err on the side of caution if ever in doubt!

6. Take a walking tour round Hanoi

The imposing Hanoi Opera House in the French Quarter

By experience, guided tours are the single best way to explore parts of any new city. As a result, walking tours are typically high up our agendas when planning our itineraries - given my positive experience of various walking tours in Europe, most notably from famous Sandemans walking tours proliferated across Europe.

Long queues of locals waiting to enter the Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum

Hanoi was no different and we lined up a private full day walking tour for the next day immediately following our evening arrival. What was unique to some of the tours available in Hanoi was that the tours are conducted by local university students, whose primary aim is to hone and practice their English skills. These tours are free of charge, with the students typically refusing any tips at the end the tours, and the only catch is that you will need to bear all expenses during the tours (entrance fees, taxi fares, meal costs etc. inclusive of that of the guides) - a small price to pay to a one-of-a-kind experience.

Entrance to the beautiful grounds of the Temple of Literature in Hanoi

It was a great experience interacting with the young Vietnamese, learning about the city through a different lens and egging our guide on to bring us to her favourite pho joints! A definite recommendation if its first time in the city and your itinerary permits. Worth noting that they are generally very flexible and can adapt the itinerary to your schedule and whatever you wish to focus on. However, be sure to make enquires and book way in advance of your trip as these tours are incredibly popular, with the small number of guides limiting supply especially during peak seasons. Do check out either of HanoiKids or Hanoi Free Tour Guides.

7. Visit bars

Hanoi has a thriving bar scene and offers multiple multi-sensory experiences that one should definitely indulge in! I would very broadly categorise into two categories:

Typical Western bar experience

Our drinks at The Summit, the rooftop bar of the Pan Pacific in Hanoi

L has a thing for rooftop bards and we made it a point to visit one of the most popular bars in Hanoi - The Summit at the Pan Pacific. Located in the Tay Ho district, it's definitely not as glitzy or bustling as compared to what we are used to in Bangkok (thinking Sky Bar and its many competitors) or here in Singapore (Spago, Ce La Vi, Equinox and the like). What we found was a quiet serene candlelit spot overlooking the West Lake and the city's skyline. Not a bad way to end off a day sipping on cocktails and reflecting on the trip thus far - don't go expecting a party though.

One place I have to mention though, would be Bamboo Bar at the Sofitel Legend Metropole - one of the best known luxury hotels in Hanoi. Located in the French Quarters, we arranged to have drinks with a couple of my Singaporean-university friends (who were coincidentally also visiting Hanoi during the same period) at the Bamboo Bar one evening. Open to non-guests of the hotel, the poolside bar to some extent reminded me of Long Bar at the Raffles Hotel in Singapore - perhaps the French colonial take on a bar vs. the British one. By no means cheap, especially when compared to pricing in the rest of Hanoi, it felt like stepping into a different world from the chaos that is Hanoi and a definite place to go for an evening cocktail.

Local style

Hawker selling balloons along Bia Hoi (Beer Street)

Hop round to Bia Hoi corner in the Old Quarters, grab a stool and join the dozen others people watching (from the bar girls peddling their ware to street hawkers holding massive bunches of animated balloons) while sipping down the many variants of local beer on offer and nibbling on the local take of bar bites - we tried the local sausages and roasted pigeons, which were all incredibly tasty. A local way to watch the world go past.

8. Food glorious food

Bun Cha at Cau Go restaurant overlooking Hoan Kiem lake

We absolutely loved the street food of Hanoi and had the opportunity to try out the spectrum of dishes on offer. For first time visitors, the best way would be to visit on the many top rated restaurants which specialise in Vietnamese street food cuisine. This allows for the perennial favourites (and must tries) such as Bun Cha (grilled pork with vermicelli noodles), spring rolls, Banh Cuon (steamed pork wraps), and even pho (although for this I would hit the streets to specialised stores), to be ordered from a single kitchen. We loved Cau Go (which was our last meal before heading back home) and the upmarket and popular Madame Hien, so definitely check them out - Cau Go comes with a glorious view overlooking Hoan Kiem lake, while Madame Hien is set in a beautiful French colonial villa. We also tried the highly rated Quan An Ngon, but would defer to the other two without hesitation.

Fresh spring rolls at Cau Go

Hitting the streets may or may not sit well with your stomach, but with careful store selection it may yield some of the best dishes you will ever try. We had our best pho's, whether in the wet version or fried, from hole-in-the-wall stores recommended by our local tour guide. We also chanced across a store selling Mien Luon (crispy eel noodles) while roaming the streets! Always look out for the level of hygiene of the store and make sure that you are comfortable with the food handling and cleanliness standards before taking the plunge - long throngs of locals should also provide some form of comfort!

Mien Luon (Crispy Eel Noodles) that we chanced upon while roaming the streets

The French colonial days have not only left an impact on modern day Hanoi, not only in its architecture which is most prevalent in the French Quarter, but in the spattering of French restaurants dotted across the city. We made sure to place reservations for La Badienne, by celebrated French chef Benjamin Rascalou, for our first evening in Hanoi - again set in a quaint colonial villa, it was the perfect location for a celebration and kickstart out gastronomic adventures on the holiday.

Egg coffee at Cafe Giang

Finally, as L can't do without her coffee, she was incredibly excited to know that egg coffee was a Hanoi specialty. The famous local drip coffee mixed with a well-beaten raw egg yolk and condensed milk - the result a velvety smooth and creamy drink meant to be sipped. We visited the most popular one - Cafe Giang, right on the edge of the Old Quarters. A little too sweet for our liking though, but a must-try when in Hanoi regardless - after that, revert to the incredibly good drip coffees on offer across the city and don't forget to take home some of the delicious locally-made G7 instant coffee sachets.

Now, go ahead an eat and sip away!